Introducing the Karambo CWS
We're over the moon to be featuring this coffee and it certainly won't be the only iteration you'll see from the Karambo CWS.
There's so much to unpack with this coffee, we thought we'd spend some time properly introducing this coffee and some of the reasons we chose to feature this coffee and washing station.
Why Burundi?
Many may not know this, but our roaster and founder - Logan - also works as a Specialty Coffee Consultant for the Mojo Coffee Group and one relationship that he has always valued is the relationship with Burundi and its exporting partner, Kayanza Specialty Coffee.
Burundi is often overlooked in the African coffee industry as it vies with powerhouses such as Ethiopia, Kenya and Rwanda. Regardless, in the six plus years that Logan has been has been dealing with Burundian coffees, there's never been a harvest that misses a beat.
It's worth mentioning that, as of writing, Red Bourbon is the only variety you'll see out of Burundi. This is part of the government's strategy to establish a unique Burundian profile much like Kenya - this does incur its own risks as lack of diversity can result an entire industry being devasted the plants lose their pest resistance.
Enter 'This Is Burundi Coffee' and the Karambo CWS
For the majority of time, he's been engaged with Burundian coffee, it's been through Gaudam Anbalagan and the washing stations of Kayanza Specialty Coffee - Rukago and Kirambi CWS.
Both of these washing stations are located in the northwestern region of Kayanza which is well-known for being the specialty coffee hub of Burundi. Rukago CWS always had the most phenomenal natural lots, consistent winey and fruit forward profiles. Kirambi CWS was a favourite for their washed coffees, dried fruit and citrus fruits with a remarkable consistency - year after year, we could rely on these lots.
In 2021, Gaudam linked up with long time industry professional Prosper Mérimée to establish 'This Is Burundi Coffee' (TIB Coffee). Prosper came from the Burundi division of Sucafina and, together with Gaudam, set out to elevate the perception of Burundian coffee.
The formation of TIB Coffee was quickly followed by establishing of their first coffee washing station in the northeastern region of Muyinga - Karambo CWS.
The untapped potential of Karambo
Unlike the Rukago and Kirambi CWS, Karambo was established in the relatively younger producing region of Muyinga. Why risk establishing themselves in a relatively unknown producing region?
Indeed Kayanza is the frontrunner in terms of specialty coffee in Burundi, it has been for decades. However, this established industry also means the coffee trees are much older and yields are decreasing with each year.
Muyinga has long term potential with many younger trees still to develop over the coming decade. The community of Muyinga can also benefit from the economic injection that a new washing station can bring - new jobs, new infrastructure and new opportunities.
Lot 11799
Every year, Logan cups the full range of coffees available from the Rukago and Kirambi CWS so when a new washing station appeared, our interest was piqued.
Last year marked the first harvest from the Karambo CWS and so we were even more surprised to see this particular lot on the table - Lot 11799, an anoxic natural (more on that later).
This Red Bourbon presented beautifully, expressing the fruit forward characteristics of this style of processing with cleanliness and an outstanding florality.
Before this harvest, the team at the Karambo CWS made their way to Kenya and visited Torch Coffee Labs to partake in the Sustainable Coffee Institute (SCI) Coffee Processing Course. There they learnt to not only improve and standardise their current practices but also learnt new processing techniques being developed in other parts of the world.
Anoxic Natural vs Anaerobic Natural
Back when experimental processing made its way on to the world stage in 2016, one of the first 'experimental' processes that made a name for itself was the anaerobic process.
This process required cherries, whole or pulped, to be placed in a low oxygen environment for anywhere between 24 hours to several days. The science behind this process is that bacteria activity shifts from the oxygen loving Acetic Acid Bacteria (AAB) to Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB) which thrives in low-oxygen environments and can dominate in low pH or acidic environments.
Flavour profile-wise, AAB are typically responsible for the off notes (vinegary) in coffee if allowed to ferment for too long. LAB have many pathways available to them but can create fruit forward flavours through the production of ketones and esters.
Let's shift back to the term, anaerobic.
Within the coffee consuming industry, the term has come to mean 'coffee fermented with low-oxygen levels' - this is describing the environment.
Scientifically speaking, anaerobic is a term reserved for bacteria and its processes. For example, there exist anaerobic bacteria that only exist in environments without oxygen.
Fun fact: LAB is not an anaerobic bacteria
Sure, everything you know from buying 'anaerobically' processed coffees suggest that it is the LAB that give coffee its unique profile through low-oxygen fermentation. Therein lies the issue with labelling coffee 'Anaerobic' - it's just not that black and white.
LAB is present even when coffee is fermented while being exposed to air, in fact it still contributes to the flavour profile. The shift happens when oxygen is removed - LAB then changes its metabolic processes to an anaerobic metabolism which uses glucose rather than oxygen and creates lactate in coffee.
So where does Anoxic come into this?
Stepping out of the rabbit hole that is fermentation, simply put, anoxic means 'without oxygen'.
Simple right?
Anoxic is used to refer to environments without any free molecular oxygen and nothing more. Sure, certain environments may still contain bound oxygen (water contains bound oxygen but you wouldn't go taking in a deep breath of it) but the understanding and transparency of 'anoxic' is streets ahead of the multi-faceted 'anaerobic' terminology.
If you made it through all the jargon, hats off to you.
In fact, here's 20% off this unique coffee as thanks for coming to this TED Talk.
Simply, use "ANOXIC" at the checkout the discount will be applied automatically.
Take care and talk soon,
Logan